I’ve been tinkering with this little beast since the start of the year and it’s gone from being a quick fpatch-up to get it on the road to something a bit more ambitious. Isn’t that always the way?
I’ve been tinkering with this little beast since the start of the year and it’s gone from being a quick fpatch-up to get it on the road to something a bit more ambitious. Isn’t that always the way?
My Laurel needed a tow bar. Okay, it didn’t need one, but I figure being a decent sized motor with enough pulling power, it would be handy for hauling other cars about when the occasion arises. But as tow bars are pig ugly things, it had to be built so it was out of sight …
I actually did this job some time ago, but figured it may be of interest, as it seems many quite capable car nuts are unwilling to tackle the replacement of these large panels, often preferring to just repair the wheel arches on their own instead. If you can get hold of the panels, there isn’t …
Pudding, Plod, Bondo, Bog, Wag or Pon… call it what you will, body filler is an inevitable part of most bodywork and one which personally I dislike immensely. There is a certain satisfaction in getting it right and making a nasty rippled panel smooth again, but the process is often a miserable one, especially when …
When times are hard, it’s sometimes necessary to repair that which you would otherwise replace. Times are indeed hard for everyone at present, but that’s not the reason for attempting this ridiculous repair on a recent acquisition, a 1989 Hyundai Pony pickup. I could have stretched to a new wing for it but… this truck …
I had been hoping that I wouldn’t have to remove the glass from this car, as the front and rear screens are bonded in. There was only one tiny rust hole just above the screen on the right hand side, but closer examination with a torch revealed there was rust visible under the bonding inside …
This was a pretty simple and straightforward panel replacement. The new valance is Nissan part number 79121-K2430. The original valance wasn’t actually rusty, but it was badly damaged in two places, and there were signs of rust starting in the seam where it’s attached to the boot floor and back panel. The first job was …
The left rear quarter is the area of the body that needs the most attention, as not only do I have the rusty wheel arch, sill and lower rear corner to deal with, bit it’s also somewhat dented too. Some of the dents were straightened by hand whist doing the rust repairs but a lot …
The left hand sill structure actually looked quite solid, in fact along its full length it didn’t have any rust holes at all. The only visible rust was in the area where the bottom edge of the front wing attaches. Despite the apparently good condition, I was going to replace it anyway, as I had …
Having completed the right hand side of the car, it’s time to tackle the rust on the other side. This is no doubt going to entail pretty much the same work as doing the right side, so I’ll probably gloss over some of the details and just provide the pictures and note any differences in …